This year, Russ & Daughters, the acclaimed appetizing institution on the Lower East Side, turns a hundred years old. To celebrate the occasion, the fourth-generation co-owners, Niki Russ Federman and Josh Russ Tupper, are giving customers a place to sit. Soon, New Yorkers will be able to enjoy their lox and bagels on plates embellished with the establishment’s signature pattern of little blue fish. The Russ & Daughters Café will open on Orchard Street, just a few blocks away from the original shop. The café’s redesigned—but still classic—neon sign was crafted by the tube benders at one of New York’s oldest neon shops. Slicing salmon and bending glass are, really, quite similar.
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Goings On
What we’re watching, listening to, and doing this week, online, in N.Y.C., and beyond. Paid subscribers also receive book picks.
The Food Scene
The Return, Again, of the Power Lunch
Four Twenty Five, a luxe new dining room from the mega-restaurateur Jean-Georges Vongerichten, takes square aim at the expense-account crowd.
By Helen Rosner
Our Local Correspondents
Why You Can’t Get a Restaurant Reservation
How bots, mercenaries, and table scalpers have turned the restaurant reservation system inside out.
By Adam Iscoe
Annals of Gastronomy
A Martini Tour of New York City
My month of vermouth-rinsing and fat-washing.
By Gary Shteyngart
The Food Scene
Mexican-ish Fine Dining, with Detours
Corima offers attention-grabbing tortillas, Japanese flourishes, and an ambitious tasting menu that hasn’t quite found its stride.
By Helen Rosner