In this week’s magazine, I write about Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, the young chefs at Animal, in Los Angeles. (Subscribers can read the full text; others can buy digital access to the issue.) Shook and Dotolo have made gluttons of a city of calorie-counters, serving what Top Chef Michael Voltaggio describes as “gnarly big plates of food where each dish has three thousand calories.” (He eats there about once a month.) In this video, shot by the photographer Jeff Minton, you can see them assemble one of their specialties: a version of the Hawaiian surfer dish loco moco, which includes Anson Mills rice, a Niman Ranch hamburger patty, a hunk of Spam, and, on top, a fried quail’s egg.
Dana Goodyear is a staff writer at The New Yorker and the host of the podcast “Lost Hills.”
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